Travel by the Calendar

Lost to all but the locals for four centuries in the Cambodian jungle, the travel notes of a Frenchman in the late 19th century put Angkor Wat firmly on the tourist map. Since then, number of tourists visiting the temple complex has grown. And grown. And grown. Siem Reap, the gateway town to the site, now has an international airport. The number of hotel rooms available in town doubled in a six month period. Peak season (December to February) is definitely something to avoid. Instead, try the shoulder season of November, as long as you don’t mind putting up with some other tourists. The most quiet time of the year is April and May, however this also coincides with high temperatures, high humidity and frequent rain.

Angkor Wat is the big tourist draw card for Cambodia. The poverty of the Cambodian people is only too apparent as they heckle the tourists for tours, for transport and trinkets to sell. Independent travel to the sights helps support the locals rather than the multinational tour companies. Try a tuk-tuk or a motorbike with a local driver to get to the sights. In fact some sights, such as Bantay Srei are only possible with a motorbike, the road is too potholed for anything else. This is not a part of the world where you want to go off on your own. Local knowledge is still necessary to avoid UXO. Consider using a local guide to take you on a tour of the sights once you are there. Most are excellent but they can be of variable quality, pay what you think they are worth. Eat your meals at the temples rather than going back to your hotel in Siem Reap. All these things can make a difference. It also provides you with the opportunity to interact with the locals including the children. Watch them handle change or speak in several different languages, you’ll be impressed by their intelligence. It’s hard not to wish they could be in school and it has certainly inspired others. The input by NGO’s in Cambodia is colossal.

Another option to consider when seeing the temples of Angkor Wat is to go to the Saturday night music concert held at the Children’s Hospital in Siem Reap. Dr Beat Richner plays the cello, and discusses the politics of healthcare in the third world. He can be opinionated and dogmatic, but it’s certainly food for thought and very few leave without making a generous donation.

The grandeur of the Cambodian civilization at the time of Angkor Wat is in sharp contrast to the poverty of today. Cambodians may be hesitant to talk about their recent history but they are justifiably proud of their older past. Angkor Wat is breathtaking both in its grand size and its fine detail. It needs at least three days to explore.

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-The best time to shop at a wet market in Hong Kong