Isn’t San Francisco too hilly to cycle?
San Francisco does have some impressive hills, that will test the leg muscles of any cyclist, let alone the tourist who doesn’t cycle at home. But the route across the bridge from San Francisco to the hamlet of Sausalito, is mostly flat, and doesn’t require extreme fitness. It takes about an hour to an hour and a half depending on how much time is spent in taking photos. Most people ride over to Sausalito, get lunch there, and then catch the ferry back to San Francisco. It is possible to ride back across the bridge but you’ll discover the very slight incline on the way over to Sausalito becomes much more significant as it’s now an uphill incline.

Where can I rent a bike?
The most common way to get cycling is to rent a bike for the day. Blazing Saddles company are the most well known bike rental, with several locations along the San Francisco pier area. The bikes come with all the gear required including helmets, U locks and a map. They also have a small pouch, large enough to fit a water bottle and a point and shoot camera, other gear you’ll have to carry in your backpack or leave in a locker at the shop.

When is the best time to go?
The weather in San Francisco is notoriously difficult to predict. September and October offer the best opportunity for warm clear days. The ride would be much less enjoyable in the rain, so these months are also preferable in terms of precipitation. It’s also a very popular ride, so if possible steer clear of school holidays, or at least summer weekends, unless you are prepared to keep stopping as much as the person in front of you.

This post is part of Photo Friday hosted by Delicious Baby. Click on the link for travel photos from around the world.

Architecture tours

The Chicago Architecture Foundation runs both walking and boat tours. Going by boat is a bit of a novelty as well as allowing you access to see more buildings than you could on foot. This particular tour group is recommended because of their well trained guides. The docents know an enormous amount about architecture. They manage to make it interesting by interspersing it with a history of the city, and of course, the great fire of, the damage from which resulted in the rebuilding that we see today. It was fortuitous that the rebuilding boom coincided with a time in architectural evolution when creativity was considered as valuable as functionality. The result is not just one but many buildings that can be considered public art.

Other Public Art in Chicago
If you are interested in public art, and the human interaction with it, there’s no better place than Chicago. First and foremost, must include a visit to Millennium Park and “The Bean” as the Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate sculpture is affectionately renamed. This huge bean shaped sculpture draws crowds every day, purely to gaze at their reflection and the reflection of the city in its shiny metallic surface. It’s easy to while away the time people watching at this site but there are other places to go as well. Just around the corner is Crown Fountain, where two screens and a series of changing faces spit water onto delighted passersby, or a little further on in Grant Park, Agora where a crowd of giant headless figures appears to be milling.
If the weather changes,as it is wont to do in Chicago, there’s always the Chicago Art Institute. If queues put you off, why not try one of the many smaller museums or galleries such as the Stained glass window museum on Navy Pier. There’s really something for every one.

When to Go
Chicago is not known for its balmy weather conditions, nor for predictability in weather patterns. In general, winters are very cold and summers are hot and steamy, but it’s hard to predict more than that. The transitional seasons seem to offer a better climate for the visitor. Spring is a lovely time to be in Chicago, simply because the city is waking up after a long winter and city councils do an amazing job with floral tributes to Spring. The brightness of the tulips, daffodils and other flowers provides a contrast to the sometimes starkness of the buildings. The architecture boat tours are closed from November until May because of the cold and potentially ice in the river. As the photo shows, an umbrella, or waterproof coat are essential as the tours go for ninety minutes in an open top boat, rain hail or shine. Walking tours are available year round for the very hardy! Even in May the tours are busy and it is best to book ahead.

The waters off the Bay Islands shelter the second largest reef system in the world, but it’s much cheaper to see it here than in Belize. For years the Bay Islands held the title of cheapest place in the world for scuba certification. This is slowly being encroached upon by Nicaragua however the islands remain an amazing place to go diving. On a single dive it’s possible, even common to see fish large and small, turtles and sharks. In season (February to April) the nutrient-rich waters of Utila attract whale sharks, although sightings are not guaranteed.

When to go
There are a number of things to take into consideration. First of all, safety. Hurricane season is June to November. Although you would be unlucky to get caught in a hurricane, unsettled conditions will reduce visibility. Similarly, visibility is less during the rainy season running from October to January. If you want the chance to see whale sharks, the best season is February to April. And finally, if you want fantastically fresh, incredibly cheap, sustainably fished lobster dinner, you need to go in lobster season (July to February 28th). The cross over of all of these, means February is the time to go to the Bay Islands.

Which Island is for me?
There are three main islands although tourists base themselves at either Roatan and Utila. Choose wisely. It’s surprisingly difficult to get from one to the other, involving either a return trip to La Ceiba on the mainland or an expensive catamaran ride.

Roatan - The luxury resorts are found on Roatan. If you are wanting to dive in the morning then spend the afternoon by a pool with a cocktail in your hand, the West Bay is the place fore you. That said, there is also room for the independent traveller and budget or family travellers on Roatan, look for the West End rather than West Bay. This has a more relaxed vibe than the West Bay and you won’t be moved off the swept white sand for not being a guest. Self catering accommodation is also a way to save money on Roatan. Food can be expensive. The diving though, is still very cheap.
Utila- Utila has very much more of a backpacker’s vibe. Those not on a “super low budget round the world adventure” may feel a little out of place. Food and accommodation is a little cheaper, dive prices are about the same. It’s a smaller island and has unfortunately become very touristy. If whale shark spotting is a must, Utila offers a better chance than Roatan.

A word about security
In June 2009, a military coup ousted the then President Zelaya. Elections were held in November 2009 however the political situation remains unstable. The islands are relatively immune to what happens on the mainland of Honduras however before booking your trip, you should refer to your country’s travel advisory service. Looking at various travel forums, it appears the islands have not experienced an increase in crime or decrease in safety, although tourism numbers are significantly down from previous years. We last visited Roatan in early June of 2009, and numbers were well down, even before the coup, secondary to the global financial crisis.

This post is part of Photo Friday hosted by DeliciousBaby. Click on the links for other travel photos from around the world.

View from the Nobbies, Phillip Island

On a slow news week in Melbourne, more than one newspaper announced Miley Cyrus spent NYE at Phillip Island. It’s not a typical island resort for Hollywood starlets, and probably not the best place to come for celebrity spotting. That said, it does have it’s own red carpet style walk every night, which plenty of people come along to watch – it’s the Penguin parade.

Little Penguins at Phillip Island

Every night at dusk, hundreds of little penguins emerge from the rough surf of the Southern Ocean, and parade across the beach to their burrows on Phillip Island. Crossing the wide beach is perilous, potentially exposing them to predators. Watching them hesitate as the surf tumbles onto the beach and then make a run for it across the sand is truly endearing. The penguins are small, only about 30 cm tall, so seeing them on the beach can be difficult, especially as the sun goes down. But once the beach crossing is complete, tourists make their way back to the visitors centre along boardwalks taking a similar route to the penguins, which provides an opportunity to see them up close.

The penguin parade is popular. An excellent example of ecotourism, it is very carefully managed. Tourists enter and leave via an informative visitor’s centre. Boardwalks connect the visitors centre with the viewing point on the beach. This structure is simply concrete benches, as low impact as possible, but get there early, it gets busy. Staff ensure people are behaving, photography at this time is forbidden because flashes dazzle the penguins. It is possible to book tickets ahead of timethough not essential.

When to go
Every day, rain or shine, the penguins waddle their way up the beach. However, since the Southern coast of Victoria can be chilly, and the excursion may involve an hour of sitting on a concrete block waiting, going in summer is a better option. A mid-week visit in February, after school has gone back, is probably the best option to reduce your exposure to crowds , but not freeze.

Other Phillip Island attractions
There are plenty of other things to do at Phillip Island including
-Brush up on your surfing at Cape Woolamai, or find a family friendly front beach at Cowes
-Stroll along the boardwalk at the Nobbies to check out the seal colony and the blowhole
-Explore the koala conservation centre

Even if you’re not a celebrity trying to dodge the media, it’s well worth a visit!

This post is part of Photo Friday, hosted by Delicious Baby. Click on the links to see travel photos from around the world.

For anyone with an interest in the history of WWII, the Kokoda campaign is significant. For anyone interested in trekking, the Kokoda trail is a rugged mountainous challenge of great beauty. For any one interested in off the beaten track destinations, Papua New Guinea is a place that will challenge and surprise you.

Wartime History
In 1942, the Japanese forces arrived at Gona in the north of Papua New Guinea. Their intent was to cross the Owen Stanley Range in the centre of the country, take Port Moresby and from there, Australia. Advancing from the south, were the Australians. The Kokoda trail lies between. Soldiers from both sides endured terrible conditions. With no road or air access, supplies, including food and medications, were slow to arrive. In the jungle environment, wound infections, dysentry and other ailments were common. Added to this, the soldiers of both sides were forced to endure command from remote locations who believed the task of passing over the Owen Stanley range should be simple and quick. More Australians died during the seven months of fighting in Papua New Guinea than in any other campaign. Many of these soldiers are buried in the Bomana War Cemetery, outside Port Moresby.

Today
It is possible today, to walk the Kokoda trail as a tourist. Or perhaps a better word is pilgrim. It is a physically demanding journey but also a type of pilgrimage, giving thanks to those who died protecting Australia’s borders. Those who walk it are often there on behalf of grandfathers or uncles who fought there. And there is an opportunity to meet the descendents of “the fuzzy-wuzzy angels“, the tribal people of Papua New Guinea, who drawn into a war which did not involve them, gave invaluable assistance to the soldiers, especially the wounded.

Trip preparation
The Kokoda trail is physically demanding hiking. There are many hills. The climate is tropical and humid. It is a rugged, remote environment. There have been deaths, related to the difficulty of the trail, and to the difficulty of evacuation. The trail must be done with a guide, and it is important to ensure they have adequate equipment such as a satellite phone, and GPS beacons , in case of emergency. At least three months of physical training is recommended, prior to walking the trail. Recent deaths have prompted requests for medical clearance, however this is not yet mandatory.

Best time to go
The driest conditions will be in August to October. The trail is usually still passable in the wet season, however, this makes it even more difficult. Australia’s school holidays run between the last week of September and the first week in October, avoid this peak time if possible.

When people think of Australian wine, they mostly think of big bold red wines. And those wines are most likely to come from South Australia. Adelaide is often overlooked by overseas and even local tourists. It’s a smaller city compared to those on the east coast and a more quiet place. But booking a flight to Adelaide for a long weekend can mean three easy day trips to three different wine growing regions. The only problem is choosing, with no less than nine wine growing regions within a ninety minute drive. The best time of year to go is in the Autumn, March or April. You’ll see the grapes being harvested and really get a sense of all the elements involved in production. It’s also a little cooler than going in the summer, South Australia regularly gets whole weeks over 38 C (100 F) in the summer.

The Barossa
The Barossa valley is probably the best known, having been established for more than 150 years, and specializing in shiraz ( aka syrah). The valley is home to well known Penfolds (makers of Grange) and Peter Lehmann as well as many others. Hand in hand with good wine comes good food and Maggie Beer’s excellent food store and cafe,can be found here, overlooking a wetlands. As well as enjoying a delicious seasonal lunch, you can pick up a copy of one of her recipe books or watch a cooking presentation from one of Australia’s best known cooks.

The Adelaide Hills
The Adelaide hills have been described as a taste of Tuscany. Not having been to Tuscany I can’t confirm this but it is a beautiful area. It’s also a little higher in altitude than the Barossa, allowing for cooler climate grapes to be grown, and respite for tourists if Adelaide is scorching. For more international comparisons, check out Hahndorf, a town with a strong German influence thanks to many German settlers.

The Clare Valley
Another area close to Adelaide, the Clare Valley is also home to both food and wine, but has a more farm-like feel than the large production areas of the Barossa. Stopping for wine tasting here will give you a chance to experience real Australian hospitality.

The South Australian government has a useful website about wine touring with links to different wineries, details of grape growing festivals and useful directions.

Food and wine travel is a great way to see the world. Where have you been especially for it’s food and drink?

It’s impossible to go to Peru without a tour of Machu Picchu. It would be like going to Paris without seeing the Eiffel tower, or flying all the way to Cambodia without paying a visit to the mighty Angkor Wat But like these other monuments, it’s easy to get caught up with a whole lot of other tourists and not see very much of what you’ve come to see. This is especially true if you want to do a traditional hike in to Machu Picchu. Since June and July provide the best weather for trekking, with the least chance of rain, they are the most popular months. If you want to hike to Machu Picchu in peak trekking season, you have to be very organised, or be a bit flexible.

The organised option is to book an Inca trail permit a year in advance, and then book your Inca trail trek. The advantage of this is you’ll be hiking the best known trail (for bragging rights back home) and the many many stairs will eventually lead you to the Sun Gate and the entrance of Machu Picchu. But, be aware you’ll be trekking in big groups, staying at even bigger campsites, which may or may not have sufficient food, tents or toilet facilities and you’ll be paying a premium because it’s the Inca Trail.

The alternative option is to realise that the Inca were all over this area five hundred odd years ago (and many of their descendants still are). And there may well be an alternative Inca trail that suits you better. Perhaps the Lares Trek which takes you through high Andean villages and snow covered passes. This trail starts at high altitude and stays there until descending to Ollantaytambo on the last day of trekking. Or the Salkentay trail which starts low but pushes you to higher and higher peaks (4850 metres!). Both are amazing life-enhancing treks, which will cost you a fraction of the cost of the Inca trail.

The downside of these alternate treks is that you do not pass through the Sun gate to reach Machu Picchu. Instead, you leave from Aguas Calientes, very very early if you are hoping to climb up Huayna Picchu on arrival. If you are keen, you’ll still arrive in plenty of time to see Machu Picchu before the tour buses arrive, and if your legs aren’t too tired, you can climb up to the Sun Gate in the opposite direction. It may be enough just to get to the Caretaker’s Hut. Turn around, and you’ll see Machu Picchu as you’ve seen it on all those pictures before, but this time, it’s right there in front of you.

As an aside, these photos were all taken while on the Lares trek, proof that the alternative treks are not by any means inferior treks.
Got the trekking bug? Other hiking to consider in Peru includes
- The Colca Canyon, the deepest in the world and also the home of spectacular condors.
- The Cordillera Blanca, part of the Andes, and extremely popular with climbers although slowly making a name for itself in trekking also and
The Cordillera Huayhuash, where the Huayhuash circuit is described by Gadling as one of the premier treks on the planet

Sunset in the Atacama Desert, Chile

The Dakar rally would be high on any list of top ten adventure races. It’s variously described as “the most dangerous race in the world”, “the looniest road race on the planet” and “above all else a sentimental and emotional affair”. It’s an age old tale of man pitting himself against the elements, with nothing but big engines, big tyres and his wits to guide him.

This two week long off-road race had a thirty year history in Africa before security concerns led to its transfer to South America. The organisers still call it the Dakar rally but have reinvented it as a desert road race which in theory could be hosted by any arid continent. For the last couple of years the race has been held in Argentina and Chile. The route of the Dakar race starts in Buenos Aires on the 1st of January.Over the next two weeks it passes through the wine growing regions of Argentina, up into Chile’s Atacama Desert, along the Pacific coast then back across the Andes and into Buenos Aires. That’s a lot of travel, around 900 kilometres per day, very little of it on sealed road.

In this much territory, of course there is a lot to see, from the driest desert on Earth, to the literally breath taking Andean mountain chain to the arty and eclectic neighbourhoods of Valparaiso. Not that you’ll get to see much but dust if you are racing. A better option might be to target one or two destinations to be in as the racers go by. It’s one way to experience some of the buzz, secondhand but safer. The race has claimed nearly fifty lives in its thirty year history, yet still has a waiting list to compete.

While not everyone is up for competing in one of the four main categories (motor bike, quad bike, truck or car), there are plenty of public visiting spots where you can cheer on the brave, possibly foolhardy competitors. And while you’re waiting, take in some spectacular scenery.

Other side trips while you’re in the area include
- Seeing the geysers of El Tatio in the Atacama desert
- Seeing Iguazu Falls in Argentina

Anywhere in the north-eastern corner of North America will display fall foliage but for something a bit different, Quebec adds a touch of Europe without the transatlantic plane trip.
Quebec has a multitude of national parks but perhaps the easiest access for a long weekend of leaf peeping is to base yourself in Montreal and from there, explore the Laurentians. The Laurentians are best known for the massive ski resort of Mt Tremblant but outside of ski season, the area is simply beautiful countryside with quaint villages, meandering streams and of course thousands of deciduous trees. The area is about an hour’s drive from Montreal. Some of the larger villages have tourist information, although it’s best to have a map yourself. Public transport is very limited. Be sure to get out and explore the forests. There are plenty of cross country skiing trails to meander along. Being only an hour from Montreal, it’s not going to be a real wilderness experience, there are too many other day trippers, but you won’t get lost!

The tourism Quebec website has a fall foliage calendar which is updated regularly during the leaf peeping season. The best time to plan for is late September or the first week in October. Don’t forget Canadian Thanksgiving is the second weekend in October, which will make vacation spots such as this busier.

Be sure to allow yourself time to explore Montreal as well. This thriving city prides itself on its art and culture scene. It’s a curious combination of Canadian and French tradition as well as welcoming a multitude of immigrants from other cultures. It is very odd going into somewhere as Canadian as Tim Hortons, only to be addressed in French. Quirkiness aside there are probably better places to go, the city has an amazing dining scene too.
Take a stroll in the Parc du Mont Royal, then come down into the alleys of Old Montreal or the hip scene of the Plateau. You’ll find murals, buskers and plenty of other action in the streets.

La Merced cathedral

The crowds come to Antigua for Semana Santa, the week leading up to Easter. For religious tourists, it’s the most holy week in the year. But for not so religious tourists, there are better times to visit Antigua. For a less touristy option, try six or so weeks later, around Mother’s Day (second Sunday in May), when there is a procession for Mary, the most well known mother of all. The streets will still be full of people, but they’re more likely to be locals watching the procession pass, or following at its rear, carrying candles. At the front of the procession, priests swing incense carriers, filling the air with thick pungent smoke. Next come the ornate floats, being carried by hooded penitents. These are followed by a marching band, then the locals, holding hands. The procession may not go as long, and the mighty alfombras are missing but so are the hoards of tourists, booking up hotels a year in advance, crowding the restaurants and ruining the spirituality of the event by talking loudly into their video cameras.

Antigua attracts tourists year round. A UNESCO city, its cobbled streets and brightly coloured buildings, as well as its comparative safety, make it a draw card and many tourists to Central America pass through. Language schools abound, and long term travellers often base themselves in Antigua for a few weeks. Many schools offer homestays to really immerse their students in Spanish. This can be challenging, but is the fastest way to improve. For time out from learning irregular verbs, there are markets to see (eg Chichicastenango), Volcanoes to climb (Volcan Pacaya is an easy half day trip) or simply soak up the laid back Antigua vibe. Antigua has been significantly altered by the tourism boom, however it is still possible to see people living their traditional lives. In particular, many indigenous women come to town in their traditional clothes, to buy goods and to sell their handicrafts. They make great souvenirs and it supports the maintenance of traditional skills, every one wins!

This post is part of Photo Friday, held over at Delicious Baby. Click on the link for travel photos from around the world.